Rat Care Guide
Pet rats are fun, inquisitive, empathetic, mischievous, and highly intelligent pets.
Rats are crepuscular, which means they are most active at dusk and dawn.
It is important to do your research BEFORE getting them. They are not “cheap” pets, so having a vet fund is essential.
Things to have in place before bringing rats home:
• An Exotic vet /Emergency vet who is experienced with rats.
• A vet fund, which covers the cost of an exam at your exotic vet plus another $100-200 (for testing, labs, medication)
• Time and space to safely give them out of the cage play time and daily attention.
• Willingness to stay up to date with current care standards.
Once you have done your research - and feel you can commit to their proper care and attention- it’s time to decide on a gender and size for your group.
Male rats are called Bucks and females, Does.
Bucks tend to be lazier and less active than does. They weigh between 450 -600 grams as adults. They can be lazy “couch potatoes”, especially as they age. Unneutured (intact) males can have peak hormonal periods in their life making introductions to new rats more difficult. Bucks like smaller sized groups than does do and seem to mesh well in a group of 3-6.
Does are curious, agile, adventurous and very active. They are always on the go, exploring, climbing and conquering the world. They are less likely to sit in your lap because they are much too busy! Females that are not spayed before the age of 6 months are more likely to develop mammary tumors. These tumors are generally benign and can and should be removed . Spaying at 6 months will significantly reduce the risk of mammary tumors and other uterine diseases . We highly recommend this. If you don’t spay before 6 months of age, spaying at first lump removal will highly benefit them. They weigh between 250-450 grams as adults. Females like larger groups of 5 and up.
BASICS
Rats live on average 2.5- 3 years . Rats are highly social by nature and should always be kept in a minimum group of three. Research has shown that a pair of rats can experience underlying stress equal to that of a lone rat, which should be avoided at all costs. Without a group, ( family) rats lack the ability to form hierarchies which are very important to their social well being . Pairs will squabble and become bored quickly, often showing signs of depression. Can you imagine having only one other human connection in your whole life? In addition, should you lose one, you will be left with a lone rat. It’s advised to add two or three rats every 12-18 months to avoid groups of two or lone rats.
ENCLOSURES
One of the most important aspects of keeping rats is setting up a proper enclosure. Care standards have come a long way for rats over the years, thankfully. Critter Nations are really the only acceptable enclosure for rats anymore. They boast a floor space of 24X36 inches, ½ inch bar spacing (safe for kittens), horizontal bars (easier to climb and decorate), the ability to remove the bottom and add a deep base, doors that open on both sides for easy entrance and decorating, wheels to move the enclosure around and the option to add on as your mischief grows. These design choices make this enclosure perfect for their needs. Critter Nations are easy to find and affordable if purchased used from Craigslist and FB Marketplace. We highly advise saving up or waiting to obtain your rats until you can obtain a Critter Nation. They are well made enclosures and will Last the life of your rats.
A single CN is acceptable for a group of three and a DCN is ideal for 6. https://a.co/d/1Bj8huB
Females trios esp will love the extra room of a double as they are SO active ! Now that you have the proper enclosure and have chosen a gender, it’s time to have fun and set up their home. You will need a cement pan from Home Depot to replace the bottom, or you can choose to create a plexiglass base. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Large-Mixing-Tub-26101/301943160
The enclosure should be filled with tons of enrichment that allows them to safely perform their natural behaviors:
Digging
Burrowing
Climbing
Hiding
Running
Sleeping
Jumping
Cuddling
Foraging
Wrestling
Options for furnishing your cage are: baskets, bridges, scarf hangers (note: only the IKEA style ones are safe- The ones sold on Amazon have a wire under the threading that is deadly), ledges , ¾ -1” ropes bridging across the enclosure, wooden toys and chews, wine racks from Goodwill, items from the dollar store, recyclables - and anything else you can find!! Rats LOVE and need tons of clutter so aim to fill any large empty spaces. Also avoid large drops that present fall hazards. When your cage is decorated try dropping a tennisball from the top and watch for any large empty spaces. Additionally, an empty box at bottom (with a fist sized entrance hole) stuffed with shredded newspaper, a roll of toilet paper hanging on a string of fleece for nesting, terrarium balls from the dollar store, handmade or purchased foraging toys are all great fun.
Acceptable Substrates are Kiln Dried Aspen, Kiln dried Pine and Sani chips. Note that *Kiln dried* pine is the only type that is safe, but it is not as absorbent as the other options and is the same price as Aspen. Mixing in a bit of grass, hay and FibreCore Eco Bedding to help with structures and tunneling is a benefit. Paper bedding is no longer recommended due to its high dust, lack of absorbency and it being an unnatural substrate for digging/burrowing. Fleece is very outdated and shouldn’t be used, as it is non absorbent and unnatural .
If you have the ability to freeze any wood substrates for 48 hours, this will help with preventing any parasitic hitchikers, like lice and mites. The rats will need 6-8” of substrate in the base.
Shelves are becoming outdated among guardians as they do not encourage an active lifestyle. One small shelf can be useful for the litter box and a place to put daily salads. Keep your shelves though because as your rats age and potentially develop arthritis or HLD, they can be helpful at end of life.
You will need two or more water bottles per enclosure. Rats also enjoy an additional water bowl for bathing and drinking from. Glass bottles are superior to plastic. Wash both bottles and bowls regularly with an unscented dish soap or in dishwasher to deter the growth of mold and harmful bacteria. Be sure to check bottles daily to make sure they are working and the ball is not stuck. Providing your pets with fresh clean water daily is essential.
You will need a litterbox. Small kitten litter boxes fit nicely on the short shelf. Picking up a glass casserole pan from Goodwill is also a great option and easy to keep clean. Use an unscented paper pellet in the litter box such as Back2Nature. If you choose to use a wheel it must be a minimum of 15”. Anything smaller causes spinal curvature and tail injuries. Not all rats will use the wheel, does seem to be bigger fans than bucks, although we have had quite a few bucks who really enjoy it. https://www.pandamoniumpets.com/chinchillawheels
OUT TIME OPPORTUNITY
Rats require time out of their enclosures often. Most rat guardians will provide out time (sometimes called “free roam”) daily for an hour minimum. Out time takes place in a safe, rat proofed space for them to play and interact with you. YOU are a key component of out time. Your rats WANT to interact with you and you are what makes out time extra special. Keep in mind that Rats chew, so cords and other chewable items must be protected. Provide places to hide and be sure they have a water source for out time. Create a different experience then they have in their cage by making a cardboard for a maze, a cat tree or similar for climbing and exploration, etc. You may even hide healthy treats or food for them to find. Rats are very intelligent and have an intense seek and reward pleasure system that makes foraging and trick training rewarding for them. You may want to begin on a large table or bed.
SOCIALIZATION
Now that you are the proud and excited keeper of your Rat mischief, how do you socialize them? There are a few ways to socialize Rats at home, and you can choose which suits you and your Rats best. Main points: Be patient. Be flexible. Give them choice.
The Confidence Method: The confidence method will often promote quicker socialization. Most rats will acclimate within a few weeks with this approach, however, it is not the preferred approach for rats that “freeze” and are overwhelmed. These rats may have been hurt by humans or have had traumatic pasts. Place the enclosure in a busy area of the home where they can observe the family. Make sure you are in a calm and confident frame of mind, because Rats pick up on emotions very well. Pick up the rat firmly and calmly, just as you would a confident Rat. Do this several times a day while they are IN the enclosure. Once the rats are confident with this in cage interaction you can move to a small out time area, like a table top and then full range out time. This approach works well for babies and socialized rats. Bonding scarfs and hoodies worn backwards are good ideas for getting rats used to you. Utilizing an empty tissue box or beanie can be a game changer for transporting shy rats and for weighing them. NEVER pick a rat up by its tail! Gently scoop them up from underneath . Always practice this while they are in the enclosure or in a safe space where they cannot fall or get away.
The Patience Method: The patience method may take a bit longer, but is especially helpful with shy, skittish or traumatized rats. It allows your Rat to make the first move in the relationship. Start by placing your hand or arm in the cage, and simply sitting there, talking to the rats. You may do this many times until the rat becomes curious and sniffs your hand, nibbles/taste it gently and then starts to climb on you. Offer soft foods like baby food on a spoon or the back of your hand. Spend time sitting by the enclosure, reading a book or singing a song. Utilizing a backwards hoodie or bonding scarf can be helpful, allow the rats to “hide” on you and walk around to new areas of the house. This will help them to identify you as a “safe place.” Take your time whatever approach you use. Build trust and remember they are friends.
DIET
Keeping your rats fit by feeding a species appropriate diet is one of the greatest things you can do toward their overall health.
We are a big proponent of the Shunamite Diet. The Shunamite Diet is a homemade mix “recipe formula” created by Alison Campbell, (author of The Scuttling Gourmet) (https://a.co/d/7TyidCn) with added vitamins and calcium plus fresh foods. The Facebook Group (https://www.facebook.com/share/g/15RufXG1zA/?mibextid=wwXIfr) can help you know how to make a balanced and enriching mix and fresh meals, as well as dose supplemental vitamins, and calcium.
Rat Pellets : Pellets are premade and available in many pet stores and online, such as Oxbow, Envigo, Mazuri , or Science Selective. Couple pellets with fresh food and healthy seed/ nuts and grains, as a treat. Note that rats under 12 weeks need 18-22% protein and unlimited food. It’s advised to feed Oxbow young mouse and rat until they are considered adults at 12 weeks. All rats should be fed a healthy salad daily if possible. http://www.isamurats.co.uk/vegetables-and-fruits.html. Rats should have their daily food weighed. 15 grams per adult rat is a good starting point. Adjust up or down according to body condition. A simple kitchen scale from Amazon that weighs in grams works well and is an important tool to have to keep track of your rats’ weights.
Scatter Feeding: Scatter feeding is important for so many reasons! Due to the need to forage as a natural behavior, the single most effective way to provide for this to scatter feed. Scatter and substrate or in foraging toys. A rat’s sense of smell is nearly twice as acute as a dog, rest assured, they can find even the smallest seed in their substrate. Running around to find food is exercise! Avoiding using a bowl means the rat can’t “guard” it and keep others from food. Rats will eat what they find when foraging, preventing selective eating. Salads can be served on your shelf, in a pie plate. Rats can eat almost anything you can. Exceptions are apple seeds, sugary treats, uncooked beans, avacado skin or pits. Refer to the link above for more safe and unsafe foods. Rats do not digest dairy well and do best with species appropriate proteins such as egg, fish and plant based items.
CLEANING
Cleaning is an important part of Rat care. We recommend washing hammocks 2 to 3 times per week as they tend to urinate while they sleep. Always use unscented laundry soaps and fabric softeners. Spot clean the cage and the bars a few times a week using diluted vinegar and warm water. Never use any chemicals or bleach. Litterbox can be cleaned as needed. If you have set up the enclosure as suggested with the deep base, the amount of times that you clean that out is going to depend on the amount of rats you have, what stage of life they are in and whether they are using the litter box. The general consensus is that it will need cleaned out anywhere from every 3 to 8 weeks. Wooden and plastic items can be run through the dishwasher and air dried. It’s very important to remember never to clean the entire enclosure at one time. If you clean the hammocks and spot clean the bars and shelves on Monday and Thursday, clean the litter box on a Sunday, and swap out for a few new toys or ropes on Tuesday, etc . Wiping out all their smells wi, ll only make them put them back extra!! It’s also very stressful for them when you move their things around so please be considerate. Make changes slowly. Don’t re-decorate the entire enclosure at one time. Slow changes are best. This is their home, so consider how you would feel if someone came in and rearranged your whole home while you were sleeping or out doing errands!!
HEALTH
Although common in nature, domestic rats are considered exotic pets. They have very specific health challenges and require an exotic vet for their medical care. Being prey animals, they are adept at hiding their pain or illness. It is necessary to be interacting with your rats daily in order to be in tune and noticed when something is off. That is often the first vague clue that the Rats guardian will have when something is wrong. Common Health Issues: You can expect to experience each of the following at least once in your rats keeping journey. Upper respiratory infections Mammary tumors( esp in does ) Abscesses Joint/tail sprains Ectoparasites (lice/mites) Less Common Health issues to research: Malocclusion, Ear infections, Urinary tract infections, Tension slices, Pyometra, Pituitary tumor, Zimbalsgland tumor, Stroke. Familiarize yourself with The Rat Guide as it is essentially the medical Bible for rats and is vet reviewed .https://ratguide.com/.
Upper Respiratory Infections Are by far the most common health challenge rats experience. Most rats have colonized mycoplasma bacteria passed from their mothers at birth and stress or poor husbandry can cause a flareup. Some rats are simply more prone to flareups, regardless of what their environment is like. Rats are silent at baseline. If they have lowered their voice enough for humans to hear them, they’re technically “yelling.” They may yell during a disagreement, peep at you to “say no” or scream in pain, but they will not ever “talk to you” therefore, any sound you hear aside from these should be investigated as a respiratory sound. Cooing like a pigeon, honking, clicking, or even grating or bubbling sounds can indicate respiratory congestion and require a vet visit ASAP.
MISCELLANEOUS:
Rats benefit from an air purifier / filter. Rats do best kept at 65-68 degrees year round. Ideal humidity is 50-60%. Be very careful not to have any ultrasonic devices in their area- this includes all humidifiers except “cool mist”. Do not use candles,scentsys, plug-ins, incense, air fresheners , etc. as these can cause respiratory infections. Be mindful of perfume and other smells. Do not vape or smoke tobacco or other products near them. Remember that rats have very delicate respiratory systems and any scents can set them into an upper respiratory infection. Use only unscented laundry soaps. Most rats react strongly to the smell or sight of cats, even if they’ve never met a cat, instinctively they know they are dangerous and will sometimes not come out at all if there’s a cat in their space. Be mindful.
I have utilized information from the following resources:
Isamu Rats (Jemma Fettes ) - She is very involved in Rat guardianship, has an informative webpage, an exceptionally extensive YouTube channel with topics ranging from socialization, health, behavior, habitat, feeding, and general care.
The Scuttling Gourmet Is a book on Rat nutrition written by Alison Campbell, creator of the Shunamite Diet. Alison has been a part of the UK rat world for 25 years, educating and writing. She is the guardian of RatWise, an amazing online community for Rat guardians worldwide. https://ratwise.co.uk/
RatGuide.com Is a comprehensive health related website for Rat health, medication, surgical interventions, etc. Widely referenced, it is a fantastic place to research, learn, and obtain discussion points for vet visits.
Cassandra Lee, a fellow rat guardian and friend who contributed to parts of this guide.
Please continue to research and stay up to date on care as things are always changing, evolving and improving. Most of all, Enjoy !
You will Love all that these sweet beings have to share!