Gerbil Care Guide
Gerbils are very active tunnels maker and burrowers, you will never see their enclosure the same way twice. They are master redecorators and love to chew!
Basic info:
Gerbils are clan animals and prefer to live in pairs or groups, they can live long enriched lives with proper enclosures and diet. Gerbils live 3-5 years on avererage. Every gerbil is different and will have it’s own personality and preferences. Some gerbils are extremely friendly, others more reserved. Human aggression is not typical in gerbils that are given proper care. They tend to choose flight over fight and typically only “attack” if they feel threatened and that they have no other choice.
Gerbils who are in improper conditions can develop something called “cage rage” (cage rage is also common in mice, hamsters and even rats that are housed in improper cages) this is where they become highly territorial of their environment and will actively attack anyone who infiltrates it often due to lack of stimulation and enrichment. You may also see bar biting which is an indicator your gerbils environment is not suitable.
Gerbils can weigh anywhere between 50-100 with males usually being larger, their bodies are around 4 inches long and their tails adding another 3 inches.
Gerbils are crepuscular which means they are most active as dawn and dusk but can learn your schedule and often are awake at times during the day as well.
Enclosures:
Gerbils need a lot of floor space for running and tunneling. Proper enclosures for 2-3 gerbils include 40 gallon breeder tank with a mesh lid, A DIY bin cages (a large storage tote modified to have adequate ventilation), an ikea detolf on its side with a homemade mesh lid. All of these options should provide plenty of ventilation and enough space for the necessary enrichment.
Once you have chosen your enclosure you will need to set it up properly.
The first step is to add your base bedding/substrate. Gerbils can use sani chips, aspen, paper and hemp based beddings, layering soft hay between layers can give them different textures for enrichment. Avoid scented beddings, soft wood, pine and cedars. These beddings can cause damage to their respiratory tracts and even cause damage to other internal organs. You will want to provide a minimum of 8-12 inches of bedding in at least half of the enclosure so that the gerbils can express natural behaviors such as burrowing and tunneling, pat it down when adding to measure correctly, this also helps hold tunnels better.
Second, you’ll need to add multiple hides on the floor of the enclosure! We suggest niteangel chamber hides, ceramic hides (an old coffee mug works great), sea grass hides, coconut hides, mason jars, cork logs, cardboard boxes, terracotta planters, tissue boxes, and paper towel tubes. DO NOT use any plastic in their enclosure, gerbils are huge chewers and will destroy the plastic and if ingested could cause blockages. When selecting wooden hides be sure that the wood is safe, there are no nails or staples and avoid hides that are held together with large amounts of glue.
Third, you will need to provide an appropriate 10-12 inch wheel with solid bottoms and no crossbars. We suggest brands like niteangel and bucatstate due to their durability, quietness and the fact that they are easy to clean. Investing in a good wheel to start will avoid the need to replace them in the future which will ultimately save you money and time. Wheels are essential to the health of your gerbils as they provide stimulation and encourage their natural running habits, it also provides an opportunity to exercise helping to prevent obesity.
Fourth is water sources! Small bowls and bottles work. You’ll want a minimum of two water sources in case one fails. For bowls make sure they’re made of glass or ceramic and are heavy enough to not be tipped over. You’ll want to place it on top of your chamber hide or a platform so that it does not get filled with bedding. Ramekins and short jam jars make great gerbil bowls! Glass bottles are superior to plastic. Wash both bottles and bowls regularly with an unscented dish soap to deter the growth of mold and harmful bacteria. Be sure to check bottles daily to make sure they are working and the ball is not stuck. Providing your pets with fresh clean water daily is essential.
Fifth, add a sand bath. Gerbils need sand to clean their fur. This mimics their natural behavior of rolling in the sand to remove excess dirt and oil from their fur. Never bathe your gerbils in water. You can use mason jars, small loaf pans, or commercially designed sand baths. Repti-sand and children’s play sand that has been baked to sanitize are both good options. Make sure your sand does not have any calcium added, this is common in a lot of commercial sand.
Sixth you’ll want to add toys and chews! Gerbils are extremely active chewer and will likely use everything provided to them. Balls, baskets and other toys made of willow are great, blocks made of safe woods, toys made of sea grass, mahogany pods, loofa slices, and apple sticks are all options. As well as egg cartons, drink carriers, corrugated cat scratchers.
Now that you’ve added all of the necessities you can add “extras”.
Here is a list of extra things that you can interchangeably add to your enclosure.
Sprays (millet, oat, wheat and flax)
Safe forage mixes made of dried herbs and flowers
Shredded toilet paper or packing paper
Crinkle paper
A container of eco earth
Whole walnuts with the shell
Whimzees
Diet:
To ensure your gerbils gets complete nutrition you should provide a high quality lab block such as mazuri rat and mouse. In addition you should provide seed mix for enrichment and variety. We suggest Higgins sunburst hamster and gerbil food. Scatter feeding is preferred as it provides an opportunity to forage as they would do in their natural habitat.
Cleaning your enclosure:
Spot clean 2-3 times a week and do large complete cleans every 1-2 months. Spot cleaning entails wiping down surfaces, hides, wheels, removing clearly soiled bedding. Larger cleans will entail all that a spot clean does but also removing and replacing 2/3rds of the bedding with fresh bedding and possibly wiping out the cages bottom if there is any urine stains or build up. When cleaning your gerbils cage and items only use diluted vinegar or mild unscented dish soaps. If something needs a deeper clean you can use natures miracle cage cleaner but please be sure to let it dry fully and air out before adding the item back to the enclosure. Do not use other household cleaners. Wood items can be baked at low temps to sanitize and plastic can be run through the dishwasher.
Socializing and bonding with your gerbils:
Each gerbil will have different levels of comfort when it comes to interacting with humans. Please remember that you are big scary giant in comparison to them. The goal is to become your gerbils friend. The best way to do this is start with a hello just as we do when making human friends. When you first get gerbils you will put them into their fully set up enclosure, they may immediately run and hide or they may explore their new environment. You can sit by the cage and talk quietly with them. As they seem to become comfortable with your presence you can try offering a snack. I suggest to hand feed their forage/seed mix to them. Put the food into your hand and slowly lower it into their cage. Lay your hand as flat and still as possible. They will approach and sniff you. Eventually they will step onto your hand and take the food. They may run to a safe spot once they get the food or they may stay seated on your hand and eat there. If you continue to do this your gerbils will begin to associate you with positive interaction. Eventually you can place your hand into the cage without food on it and they will feel comfortable approaching and interacting. Once you are at that point you can slowly lift your hand a few inches while your gerbil is on it for a few seconds and then place your hand back down. Repeat this process until they’re comfortable and don’t seem to feel the need to run. Soon you should be able to scoop your hamster up with both hands and hold/pet them outside of the cage. Never grab your gerbil by the tail, limbs, head or scruff. Always scoop from underneath and be sure to support their entire bodies. Gerbils are fast. They are incredibly delicate and should be treated as such. If you want to provide out of cage play time and they are comfortable with it you may do so! It is best to clear a space and set up an area with some clutter, enrichment and hides. You can use a play pen (make sure they cannot escape), an empty plastic tote with no lid even a dry bathtub with the drain plugged and a towel at the bottom. Do not use “hamster balls” for out of cage time. They’re unsafe, unsanitary, and an escape risk.
Health concerns:
Gerbils, like all domesticated animals, need to be able to access veterinary care if they’re ill. Some common health concerns to look out for are inner ear problems (cholesteoma), mites, scent gland tumors, abscesses, and respiratory infections. Mites must be treated with kitten revolution or selemectin prescribed by a vet. Do not use any over the counter mite/flea medications or try to bathe your gerbils. Both can lead to death and will not get rid of the mites. Respiratory infections can also happen. If you hear any odd noises, continual sneezing or see that your gerbil is having a difficult time breathing take them to the vet as soon as possible. Your vet should prescribe and dose an appropriate antibiotic. When it comes to respiratory infections the quicker they are treated the better chance they have of recovery.