Rabbit Care Guide

Basic info:

Rabbits are not starter pets. They can live 7-12 years and need a lot of space and enrichment. The days of cages and hutches are long in the past and are not acceptable for any breed of rabbit. Rabbits can live in pairs if both are fixed. 

Enclosures:

Rabbits are not “caged animals”. They need enough space to run, binky, get exercise as well as accommodate their supplies and enrichment. We encourage free roaming in a bunny proofed room or space. If free roaming your rabbit isn’t a safe or sustainable option for you an exercise pen to keep them contained is the most appropriate option. 

Regardless of if you are free roaming or using an exercise pen (x pen) your rabbit will need these things in their area. 

Non slip flooring: rabbits do not have padding on their feet so they are susceptible to slipping and sliding. This can lead to your rabbit not exercising as much as they should, splayed feet and legs, arthritis, and injuries. If your rabbit is litter trained and not a big chewer you can simply use a low pile or flatweave rug. If your rabbit is a bit more destructive or still working on their litter habits we suggest a washable puppy pee pad. 

Litter box: you will want to use a high sided “cat” litter box or even a storage tote. Especially if you have larger or multiple rabbits. We do not suggest most litter boxes  “made for small animals” as they are not large enough. For litter do NOT use cat litter as it is unsafe for your rabbit. Do use kiln dried pine pellets or unscented paper small animal bedding. You should also provide unlimited amounts of hay in or near the litter box. 

Water & food bowls: heavy ceramic large dog bowls work best! You might be surprised but rabbits can drink as much water as a medium to large dog daily! They also love to flip things over so make sure your bowl is large and heavy enough to hold enough water and not be spilled.

Hides. rabbits are prey animals and should have access to at least one hide. This can be as simple as a cardboard box but something that your rabbit can fit its entire body and lay down comfortably under is important. 

Enrichment: rabbits require a lot of mental stimulation, there are several toys made for rabbits and some you may not think of. Baby stacking cups are a fun option, you can put pieces of treats or snacks between the cups and watch them toss them around or knock them over. zip tying two mason jar rings together is a cheap DIY toy. A homemade dig box or shredding toy is fun too.  Make sure whatever you give them is made of bunny safe products. 

Diet:

Rabbit diets should consist primarily of hay. Timothy or Orchard Hay are the best options. Alfalfa can be given to bunnies under 6 months old.  They need a small amount of hay based pellets (1/8c-1/2c depending on the rabbits size) Oxbow red bag, Sherwood or Small Pet Select are all good options. Your rabbit will also need at least a cup of leafy greens daily. Leafy greens include romaine, red and green leaf lettuce, parsley, dandelion greens, etc.  Avoid too much spinach and kale as they can cause gas and potentially lead to upset stomach or stasis. Treats can be given daily in small amounts. Do not give anything with seeds, nuts, excess sugar or dairy as they can cause health issues in your rabbit. Give your rabbit water in a bowl.

Cleaning your enclosure:

Spot cleaning should be done daily. Toss any stray poops in their litter box or vacuum them up. A small shop-vac is great to have on hand. Clean their litter box at least every 2-3 days, it may need done more than that if you have multiple rabbits. 

Socializing and bonding:

Every rabbit will have different levels of comfort when it comes to interacting with humans. Some will allow you to hold them, but because they are prey animals most rabbits prefer to keep their feet on the ground. Sitting on the floor in their enclosure and talking to them is a great way to get them used to you. Offering small treats or rabbit safe fruits are also a good way to bond with your bunny. Banana is loved by most rabbits. 

Health concerns:

Rabbits, like all domesticated animals, need to be able to access veterinary care if they’re ill. Some common health concerns to look out for are mites/fleas, stasis and malocclusion. Mites must be treated with kitten revolution or selamectin prescribed by a vet. Do not use any over the counter mite/flea medications or try to bathe your rabbit. Both can lead to death and will not get rid of the mites. Stasis is known as the deadly killer and can often come on quickly and unexpectedly.  A rabbits gut should always be moving, which is why you often see them poop while they are eating.  If you notice your rabbit is not pooping or eating they could be in stasis. Infant gas drops and either Sherwood recovery food or oxbow critical care are vital to have on hand.  You can ask your vet for gut motility meds and meloxicam to have on hand. In severe cases your bunny will need to see a vet. Malocclusion is when your rabbits teeth don’t line up properly. Because they are constantly growing, if they  are not lined up they can grow too long, in some cases rabbits need to have regular tooth trims or even have their incisors removed.