Hamster Care Guide
There are several species of Hamsters. The most common are the Syrian, or teddy bear hamster as pet stores like to call them. You will also see Winter White, Roborovski (often referred to as robo hamsters) and campbells, among others.
Basic info:
Hamsters are solitary animals and prefer to live on their own, they typically live 1-3 years and can have very enriched lives with proper enclosures and diet. Every hamster is different and will have its own personality and preferences. Some hamsters are extremely friendly, others more reserved. Human aggression is not typical in hamsters that are given proper care. They tend to choose flight over fight and typically only “attack” if they feel threatened and that they have no other choice.
Hamsters who are in improper conditions can develop something called “cage rage” (cage rage is also common in mice and even rats that are housed in improper cages) this is where they become highly territorial of their environment and will actively attack anyone who infiltrates it often due to lack of stimulation and enrichment. You may also see bar biting which is an indicator your hamsters environment is not suitable.
Syrian hamsters can weigh anywhere between 120 to 250 grams with females usually being larger, however we are seeing them weigh more lately due to poor breeding practices. Dwarfs weigh between 19-55 grams.
Hamsters are crepuscular which means they are most active as dawn and dusk and as such may not make the best pets for children who want to interact with them during the day. Although there are always exceptions to this as each hamster has their own personality and can come to learn your schedule.
Enclosures:
Hamsters need a lot of floor space for running. The average hamster can run up to 5 miles in one night. Proper enclosures include 60 gallon breeder tank with a mesh lid. Bucatstate 2.0/3.0, Niteangel bigger word or similar enclosure. There are also DIY options such as bin cages (a large storage tote modified to have adequate ventilation), an ikea detolf on its side with a homemade mesh lid. All of these options should provide plenty of ventilation and enough space for the necessary enrichment.
Once you have chosen your enclosure you will need to set it up properly.
The first step is to add your base bedding/substrate. Hamsters can use sani chips, aspen, paper and hemp based beddings. Avoid scented beddings, soft wood, pine and cedars. These beddings can cause damage to their respiratory tracts and even cause damage to other internal organs. You will want to provide a minimum of 6-12 inches of bedding in at least half of the enclosure so that the hamster can express natural behaviors such as burrowing and tunneling, pat it down when adding to measure correctly, this also helps hold tunnels better.
Second, you’ll need to add multiple hides on the floor of the enclosure! We suggest niteangel chamber hides (you can coat them in a few layers of modge podge or another non toxic sealant to make them last longer) ceramic hides (an old coffee mug works great), sea grass hides, coconut hides, mason jars, cork logs, cardboard boxes, terracotta planters, oatmeal containers, tissue boxes, and paper towel tubes. You can use plastic hides but watch out for excessive chewing. When selecting wooden hides be sure that the wood is safe, there are no nails or staples and avoid hides that are held together with large amounts of glue.
Third, you will need to provide an appropriate 10-12 inch wheel with solid bottoms and no crossbars. We suggest brands like niteangel and bucatstate due to their durability, quietness and the fact that they are easy to clean. Investing in a good wheel to start will avoid the need to replace them in the future which will ultimately save you money and time. Wheels are essential to the health of your hamster as they provide stimulation and encourage their natural running habits, it also provides an opportunity to exercise helping to prevent obesity.
Fourth is water sources! Small bowls and bottles work. You’ll want a minimum of two water sources in case one fails. For bowls make sure they’re made of glass or ceramic and are heavy enough to not be tipped over. You’ll want to place it on top of your chamber hide or a platform so that it does not get filled with bedding. Ramekins and short jam jars make great hamster bowls! Glass bottles are superior to plastic. Wash both bottles and bowls regularly with an unscented dish soap to deter the growth of mold and harmful bacteria. Be sure to check bottles daily to make sure they are working and the ball is not stuck. Providing your pets with fresh clean water daily is essential.
Fifth, add a sand bath. Hamsters need sand to clean their fur. This mimics their natural behavior of rolling in the sand to remove excess dirt and oil from their fur. Never bathe your hamster in water. You can use mason jars, small loaf pans, or commercially designed sand baths. Repti-sand and children’s play sand that has been baked to sanitize are both good options. Make sure your sand does not have any calcium added, this is common in a lot of commercial sand.
Sixth you’ll want to add toys and chews! hamsters are extremely active and will likely use everything provided to them. Balls, baskets and other toys made of willow are great, blocks made of safe woods, toys made of sea grass, mahogany pods, loofa slices, and apple sticks are all options.
Now that you’ve added all of the necessities you can add “extras”.
Here is a list of extra things that you can interchangeably add to your enclosure.
Cork Bark
Sprays (millet, oat, wheat and flax)
Safe forage mixes made of dried herbs and flowers
Shredded toilet paper or packing paper
Crinkle paper
A container of eco earth
Whole walnuts with the shell
Whimzees
Diet:
To ensure your hamster gets complete nutrition you should provide a high quality lab block such as mazuri rat and mouse. In addition you should provide seed mix for enrichment and variety. We suggest Higgins sunburst hamster and gerbil food. Scatter feeding is preferred as it provides an opportunity to forage as they would do in their natural habitat. Hamsters are food hoarders and you may find stashes around their cages. There are many hamster safe foods that can be given in addition, make sure to give a piece no larger than the size of your hamsters ear.
Cleaning your enclosure:
Spot clean 2-3 times a week and do large complete cleans every 1-2 months.Spot cleaning entails wiping down surfaces, hides, wheels, removing clearly soiled bedding. Larger cleans will entail all that a spot clean does but also removing and replacing 2/3rds of the bedding with fresh bedding and possibly wiping out the cages bottom if there is any urine stains or build up. When cleaning your hamsters cage and items only use diluted vinegar or mild unscented dish soaps. If something needs a deeper clean you can use natures miracle cage cleaner but please be sure to let it dry fully and air out before adding the item back to the enclosure. Do not use other household cleaners. Wood items can be baked at low temps to sanitize and plastic can be run through the dishwasher.
Socializing and bonding with your hamster:
Each hamster will have different levels of comfort when it comes tointeracting with humans. Please remember that you are big scary giant in comparison to them. The goal is to become your hamsters friend. The best way to do this is start with a hello just as we do when making human friends. When you first get hamster you will put them into their fully set up enclosure, they may immediately run and hide or they may explore their new environment. You can sit by the cage and talk quietly with them. As they seem to become comfortable with your presence you can try offering a snack. I suggest to hand feed their forage/seed mix to them. Put the food into your hand and slowly lower it into their cage. Lay your hand as flat and still as possible. They will approach and sniff you. Eventually they will step onto your hand and take the food. They may run to a safe spot once they get the food or they may stay seated on your hand and eat there. If you continue to do this your hamster will begin to associate you with positive interaction. Eventually you can place your hand into the cage without food on it and they will feel comfortable approaching and interacting. Once you are at that point you can slowly lift your hand a few inches while your hamster is on it for a few seconds and then place your hand back down. Repeat this process until they’re comfortable and don’t seem to feel the need to run. Soon you should be able to scoop your hamster up with both hands and hold/pet them outside of the cage. Never grab your hamster by the tail, limbs, head or scruff. Always scoop from underneath and be sure to support their entire bodies. Hamsters don’t have a sense of danger and WILL jump from your hands and high places. They’re incredibly delicate and should be treated as such. If you want to provide out of cage play time and they are comfortable with it you may do so! It is best to clear a space and set up an area with some clutter, enrichment and hides. You can use a play pen (make sure they cannot escape), an empty plastic tote with no lid even a dry bathtub with the drain plugged and a towel at the bottom. Do not use “hamster balls” for out of cage time. They’re unsafe, unsanitary, and an escape risk.
Health concerns:
Hamsters, like all domesticated animals, need to be able to access veterinary care if they’re ill. Some common health concerns to look out for are wet tail, mites, scent gland tumors, abscesses, and respiratory infections. Mites must be treated with kitten revolution or selemectin prescribed by a vet. Do not use any over the counter mite/flea medications or try to bathe your hamster. Both can lead to death and will not get rid of the mites. Respiratory infections can also happen in hamsters. If you hear any odd noises, continual sneezing or see that your hamster is having a difficult time breathing take them to the vet as soon as possible. Your vet should prescribe and dose an appropriate antibiotic. When it comes to respiratory infections the quicker they are treated the better chance they have of recovery.