Mouse Care Guide
Mice are extremely joyous pets, they are intelligent, social, very fun to watch and of course adorable. They like all animals require proper husbandry. There is some divide in what is considered “proper” in the mouse world mainly due to breeder standards being different than pet standards but we believe that care standards for all species are constantly changing and improving and we do our best to keep up with the latest information.
Basic info:
Pet mice also know as fancy mice are the domesticated version of the house mouse (Mus musculus ). They are small, delicate rodents that come in a variety of different coat colors and coat types. They are social creatures who do best living in groups of 3 or more (females can be housed together, males should be housed alone unless neutered) and live on average 2-3 years. Each mouse will have its own personality and preferences. Some mice are extremely friendly, others more reserved. Human aggression is not typical in mice that are given proper care. They tend to choose flight over fight and typically only “attack” if they feel threatened and that they have no other choice. Mice who are in improper conditions can develop something called “cage rage” (cage rage is also common in hamsters and even rats that are housed in improper cages) this is where they become highly territorial of their environment and will actively attack anyone who infiltrates it often due to lack of stimulation and enrichment. Male mice cannot be housed with other mice unless neutered or under 8 weeks old. Once they reach sexual maturity they can become aggressive and territorial towards other males. If you choose to leave male mice together in adult hood you run the risk of them injuring and even killing one another. Adult mice can healthily weigh anywhere between 20 to 100 grams. Some coat types (e.g. brindles) are prone to obesity.
Enclosures:
It was previously believed that mice needed small enclosures to feel safe. This myth has been debunked over and over again. What mice need is a large enclosure with plenty of clutter, enrichment and many small spaces to hide and sleep. Here in the US the current recommendation is a 40 gallon breeder tank with a mesh lid (about 650 sq inches) for 1-4 mice. If you prefer a barred enclosure we suggest using a prevue 528 as it provides a similar floor space, please be sure to assemble it correctly to avoid escapes and injuries. There are also DIY options such as bin cages ( a large storage tote modified to have adequate ventilation), an ikea detolf layed on its side with a home made mesh lid. All of these options should provide plentiful ventilation and enough space for the necessary enrichment. Once you have chosen your enclosure you will need to set it up properly. The first step is to add your base bedding/substrate. Mice can use sani chips, aspen, paper and hemp based beddings. Avoid scented beddings, soft wood, pine and cedars. These beddings can cause damage to their respiratory tracts and even cause damage to other internal organs. You will want to provide a minimum of 5-7 inches of bedding in at least half of the enclosure so that the mice can express natural behaviors such as burrowing (pat it down when adding to measure correctly) Second you’ll need to add multiple hides on the floor of the enclosure! We suggest nite angel chamber hides (coat them in a few layers of modgepodge or another non toxic sealant to make them last longer) , ceramic hides (an old coffee mug works great), sea grass hides, coconut hides, mason jars, cork logs, cardboard boxes, and paper towel tubes. You can use plastic hides but watch out for excessive chewing. When selecting wooden hides be sure that the wood is safe, there are no nails or staples and avoid hides that are held together with large amounts of glue. Third you will want provide an appropriate wheel or two depending on how many mice you have. We recommend 10-12 inches with solid bottoms and no cross bars. We suggest brands like nite angel due to their durability and the fact that they are easy to clean. Investing in a good wheel to start will avoid the need to replace them in the future which will ultimately save you money and time. Wheels are essential to the health of your mice as they provide loads of stimulation and the opportunity to exercise helping to prevent obesity. The fourth and most important thing to add to your enclosure is water sources! Small bowls and bottles work. You’ll want a minimum of two water sources in case one fails. For bowls make sure they’re made of glass or ceramic and are heavy enough to not be tipped over. You’ll want to place it on top of your chamber hide or a platform so that it does not get filled with bedding. Ramekins and short jam jars make great mouse bowls! Glass bottles are superior to plastic. Wash both bottles and bowls regularly with an unscented dish soap to deter the growth of mold and harmful bacteria. Be sure to check bottles daily to make sure they are working and the ball is not stuck. Providing your pets with fresh clean water daily is essential. The fifth thing to add to your enclosure is hanging hides and climbing opportunities! Mice (like rats) love to climb. It is one of their natural behaviors. To satisfy this behavior you can add bridges (typically found in the bird section of your local pet store), braided ropes (can be found at the dollar store, made of fleece or even found in the dog toy section of your local pet store), sea grass and coconut hides (also found in the bird section) and my favorite mouse sized hammocks. Mice love hammocks made of fleece just like rats do. Sixth you’ll want to add toys and chews! Mice are extremely active and will likely use everything provided to them. Balls, baskets and other toys made of willow are great, blocks made of safe woods, toys made of sea grass, mahogany pods, loofa slices, and apple sticks are all options. Now that you’ve added all of the necessities you can add “extras”.
Here is a list of extra things that you can interchangeably add to your enclosure.
Reptile moss
Sprays (millet, oat, wheat and flax)
Safe forage mixes made of dried herbs and flowers
Shredded toilet paper or packing paper
Crinkle paper
A container of eco earth
Whole walnuts with the shell
Whimzees
Diet:
Mice have extremely fast metabolisms and should always have access to food 24/7. Make sure that their base diet is always available. They will not over eat a commercial pelleted food aka “lab blocks”. Most mice do well on one of these commercial foods. Mazuri rat and mouse Oxbow young rat and mouse Or science selective mouse and rat In addition to these base diets you should provide seed mix for enrichment and variety. We suggest Higgins sunburst rat and mouse, Higgins sunburst hamster and gerbil or Higgins sunburst parakeet and budgie blend. If you’re interested in making a homemade seed mix check out “Shunamite diet USA” on Facebook for guidance on how to make a blend that has an appropriate balance of fat, protein and fiber for mice. (They’re geared towards rats but do have recipes for mice)
Cleaning your enclosure:
The amount that you need to clean your enclosure will vary depending on how many mice you have. A good rule of thumb is to spot clean 2-3 times a week and do large cleans every 1-2 months. Spot cleaning entails wiping down surfaces, hides, wheels, changing out hammocks and removing clearly soiled bedding. Larger cleans will entail all that a spot clean does but also removing and replacing 2/3rds of the bedding with fresh bedding and possibly wiping out the cages bottom if there is any urine stains or build up. When cleaning your mouses cage and items only use diluted vinegar or mild unscented dish soaps. If something needs a deeper clean you can use natures miracle cage cleaner but please be sure to let it dry fully and air out before adding the item back to the enclosure. Do not use other household cleaners.
Socializing and bonding with your mice:
Each mouse will have different levels of comfort when it comes to interacting with humans. Please remember that you are big scary giant in comparison to them. The goal is to become your mouses friend. I find the best way to do this is start with a hello just as we do when making human friends. When you first get your mouse or mice you will put them into their fully set up enclosure, they may immediately run and hide or they may explore their new environment. You can sit by the cage and talk quietly with them. As they seem to become comfortable with your presence you can try offering a snack. I suggest to hand feed their forage/seed mix to them. Put the food into your hand and slowly lower it into their cage. Lay your hand as flat and still as possible. They will approach, sniff you, maybe even gently nibble on your hand or finger nails. Eventually they will step onto your hand and take the food. They may run to a safe spot once they get the food or they may stay seated on your hand and eat there. If you continue to do this your mice will begin to associate you with positive interaction. Eventually you can place your hand into the cage without food on it and they will feel comfortable approaching and interacting. Once you are to that point you can slowly lift your hand a few inches while the mice are on it for a few seconds and then place your hand back down. Repeat this process until they’re comfortable and don’t seem to feel the need to run. Soon you should be able to scoop your mouse up and hold/pet them outside of the cage. Never grab your mouse by the tail, limbs, head or scruff. Always scoop from underneath and be sure to support their entire bodies. They’re incredible delicate and should be treated as such. If you want to provide out of cage play time to your mice and they are comfortable with it you may do so! It is best to clear a space and set up an area with some clutter, enrichment and hides. You can use a play pen (make sure they cannot escape), an empty plastic tote with no lid or a high surface such as a desk, table, bathroom counter or even a bed. Mice will rarely jump off of high surfaces unlike hamsters who have no perception of height but of course always watch closely when your mouse is out of the cage. Mice may be more willing to interact with you out of the cage than they are in the cage. If your mouse still isn’t comfortable climbing onto your hand but you would like to move them to a play area you can coax them into one of their hides, a snuggle sack, or a paper towel roll and carry them in that. Be sure to cover the entry and exits while moving from one place to another to avoid falls or escapes. Do not use “hamster balls”. for out of cage time. They’re unsafe, unsanitary, and an escape risk.
Health concerns:
Mice like all domesticated animals need to be able to access veterinary care if they’re ill. Some common health concerns to look out for are mites, tumors, and respiratory infections. Mites must be treated with kitten revolution or selemectin prescribed by a vet. Do not use any over the counter mite/flea medications or try to bathe your mouse. Both can lead to death and will not get rid of the mites. Tumors are unfortunately common in mice and often seem to appear “over night” or very suddenly. Depending on your mouses age and general health they can be removed by a skilled vet which can extend your mouses life significantly. If for whatever reason your mouse is not able to have the tumor removed you will want to closely monitor quality of life and consult your vet regularly on if humane euthanasia is necessary. Respiratory infections can also happen in mice. If you hear an odd noises, continual sneezing or see that your mouse is having a difficult time breathing take them to the vet as soon as possible. Your vet should prescribe and dose an appropriate antibiotic. When it comes to respiratory infections the quicker they are treated the better chance they have of recovery.